Pattern piece F
Needle & thread chart
Find your fabric to see the machine needle type and size, the thread and the stitch length to start from, with every recommendation traced to the maker that published it.
Needle, thread and stitch length by fabric
All 55 fabrics.
| Fabric | Needle type and size (SCHMETZ) | Class | Thread (Brother) | Stitch length |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| ChiffonSheer & lace · named by Brother | Universal or Microtex 60/8–70/10 | Lightweight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–80 | 1.8–2.5 mm |
| OrganzaSheer & lace | Universal or Microtex 60/8 or 70/10 | Lightweight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–80 | 1.8–2.5 mm |
| OrgandySheer & lace | Universal or Microtex 60/8 or 70/10 | Lightweight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–80 | 1.8–2.5 mm |
| VoileSheer & lace · named by Brother | Universal 60/8–80/12 | Lightweight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–80 | 1.8–2.5 mm |
| TulleSheer & lace · named by Brother | Universal or Jersey 70/10 or 80/12 | Lightweight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–80 | 1.8–2.5 mm |
| LaceSheer & lace | Microtex 70/10–90/14, or Stretch 75/11 or 90/14Stretch needles are the choice for stretch lace. | Lightweight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–80 | 1.8–2.5 mm |
| BatisteWoven | Universal 60/8–70/10 | Lightweight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–80 | 1.8–2.5 mm |
| CambricWoven | Universal 60/8–70/10 | Lightweight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–80 | 1.8–2.5 mm |
| Silk, wovenWoven | Microtex 60/8–90/14 | Lightweight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–80 | 1.8–2.5 mm |
| ShirtingWoven | Universal 70/10 or Jeans/Denim 70/10 | Lightweight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–80 | 1.8–2.5 mm |
| Rayon (viscose)Woven | Universal 70/10 or 80/12 | Lightweight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–80 | 1.8–2.5 mm |
| Tencel (lyocell)Woven | Microtex, Jeans/Denim or Universal 70/10 | Lightweight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–80 | 1.8–2.5 mm |
| GauzeWoven | Jersey 70/10 or 80/12 | Lightweight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–80 | 1.8–2.5 mm |
| TaffetaWoven · named by Brother | Microtex or Universal 60/8 or 70/10 | Medium weight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–60 | 2.0–3.0 mm |
| PoplinWoven · named by Brother | Microtex or Universal 60/8–80/12 | Medium weight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–60 | 2.0–3.0 mm |
| Cotton, wovenWoven · named by Brother | Universal 70/10–90/14 | Medium weight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–60 | 2.0–3.0 mm |
| BatikWoven | Microtex 70/10–90/14 | Medium weight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–60 | 2.0–3.0 mm |
| ChambrayWoven | Universal 80/12–90/14 | Medium weight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–60 | 2.0–3.0 mm |
| LinenWoven · named by Brother | Universal 70/10–90/14 | Medium weight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–60 | 2.0–3.0 mm |
| SeersuckerWoven | Universal 70/10–90/14 | Medium weight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–60 | 2.0–3.0 mm |
| FlannelWoven · named by Brother | Universal 80/12 | Medium weight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–60 | 2.0–3.0 mm |
| SatinWoven · named by Brother | Microtex, Jeans/Denim or Universal, by the fabric's weight | Medium weight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–60 | 2.0–3.0 mm |
| BrocadeWoven | Universal or Microtex 60/8–90/14 | Medium weight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–60 | 2.0–3.0 mm |
| DamaskWoven | Universal 80/12 | Medium weight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–60 | 2.0–3.0 mm |
| JacquardWoven | Universal 80/12–100/16 | Medium weight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–60 | 2.0–3.0 mm |
| MicrofibreWoven | Microtex 60/8–90/14 | Medium weight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–60 | 2.0–3.0 mm |
| Polyester, wovenWoven | Universal or Microtex 60/8–100/16 | Medium weight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–60 | 2.0–3.0 mm |
| Wool and hair fibres, wovenWoven | Universal 80/12SCHMETZ lists this for alpaca, camel hair and cashmere wovens. | Medium weight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–60 | 2.0–3.0 mm |
| TwillWoven | Jeans 70/10–110/18 | Medium weight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–60 | 2.0–3.0 mm |
| Hemp clothWoven | Universal 90/14 | Medium weight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–60 | 2.0–3.0 mm |
| Terry clothPile & fur · named by Brother | Universal 80/12 or 90/14 | Medium weight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–60 | 2.0–3.0 mm |
| DenimWoven · named by Brother | Jeans 90/14–110/18Brother's table names denim of 12 oz and up as heavyweight. | Heavyweight | Polyester #60, or cotton or silk #30–50 (#30 with a 100/16 needle) | 2.5–4.0 mm |
| CanvasWoven · named by Brother | Jeans 90/14–110/18 | Heavyweight | Polyester #60, or cotton or silk #30–50 (#30 with a 100/16 needle) | 2.5–4.0 mm |
| CorduroyPile & fur · named by Brother | Jeans/Denim or Universal 80/12 | Heavyweight | Polyester #60, or cotton or silk #30–50 (#30 with a 100/16 needle) | 2.5–4.0 mm |
| VelvetPile & fur | Stretch 75/11 or 90/14, or Universal 70/10–90/14 | Medium weight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–60 | 2.0–3.0 mm |
| VelourPile & fur · named by Brother | Universal 70/10–100/16 | Heavyweight | Polyester #60, or cotton or silk #30–50 (#30 with a 100/16 needle) | 2.5–4.0 mm |
| Faux furPile & fur | Universal 80/12 (soft backing) or 90/14 (stiff backing) | Heavyweight | Polyester #60, or cotton or silk #30–50 (#30 with a 100/16 needle) | 2.5–4.0 mm |
| JerseyKnit & stretch · named by Brother | Jersey 60/8–80/12 | Stretch | Polyester, cotton or silk #50 | Set by fabric thickness; sew with a zigzag, stretch or overlock stitch |
| Cotton knitKnit & stretch · named by Brother | Jersey 70/10–90/14, or Stretch 75/11 or 90/14 | Stretch | Polyester, cotton or silk #50 | Set by fabric thickness; sew with a zigzag, stretch or overlock stitch |
| Knits with elastaneKnit & stretch | Stretch 75/11–90/14, or Jersey 70/10–90/14 | Stretch | Polyester, cotton or silk #50 | Set by fabric thickness; sew with a zigzag, stretch or overlock stitch |
| Silk jerseyKnit & stretch | Stretch 75/11 | Stretch | Polyester, cotton or silk #50 | Set by fabric thickness; sew with a zigzag, stretch or overlock stitch |
| Sweatshirt fleeceKnit & stretch | Jersey 70/10–90/14 | Stretch | Polyester, cotton or silk #50 | Set by fabric thickness; sew with a zigzag, stretch or overlock stitch |
| FleeceKnit & stretch · named by Brother | Universal 70/10–90/14, or Stretch 75/11–90/14 | Stretch | Polyester, cotton or silk #50 | Set by fabric thickness; sew with a zigzag, stretch or overlock stitch |
| Velour jerseyKnit & stretch | Stretch 75/11 or 90/14 | Stretch | Polyester, cotton or silk #50 | Set by fabric thickness; sew with a zigzag, stretch or overlock stitch |
| Lingerie fabricsKnit & stretch · named by Brother | Stretch 75/11 or 90/14, or Jersey 70/10–90/14 | Stretch | Polyester, cotton or silk #50 | Set by fabric thickness; sew with a zigzag, stretch or overlock stitch |
| ElasticOther | Stretch 75/11–90/14, or Super NonStick 70/10–100/16 | Stretch | Polyester, cotton or silk #50 | Set by fabric thickness; sew with a zigzag, stretch or overlock stitch |
| Leather, thinLeather & coated | Leather or Universal 70/10–90/14 | Medium weight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–60 | 2.0–3.0 mm |
| Leather, thickLeather & coated | Leather 100/16–120/19Many home machines take needles up to 100/16 only (Brother's table stops there); check your manual. | Heavyweight | Polyester #60, or cotton or silk #30–50 (#30 with a 100/16 needle) | 2.5–4.0 mm |
| Faux leatherLeather & coated | Microtex 70/10–90/14, or Leather 70/10–100/16 | Medium weight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–60 | 2.0–3.0 mm |
| VinylLeather & coated · named by Brother | Microtex 60/8–90/14, or Super NonStick 70/10–100/16 | Heavyweight | Polyester #60, or cotton or silk #30–50 (#30 with a 100/16 needle) | 2.5–4.0 mm |
| OilclothLeather & coated | Microtex 80/12–100/16, or Super NonStick 70/10–100/16 | Heavyweight | Polyester #60, or cotton or silk #30–50 (#30 with a 100/16 needle) | 2.5–4.0 mm |
| Cork fabricLeather & coated | Microtex 70/10–90/14, or Super NonStick 70/10–100/16 | Medium weight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–60 | 2.0–3.0 mm |
| FeltOther | Universal 80/12–110/18 | Heavyweight | Polyester #60, or cotton or silk #30–50 (#30 with a 100/16 needle) | 2.5–4.0 mm |
| Quilt (top, batting, backing)Other | Quilting 75/11 or 90/14, or Jeans 70/10–110/18SCHMETZ pairs Quilting 75/11 with 50 wt piecing thread and 90/14 with 40 wt quilting thread. | Medium weight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–60 | 2.0–3.0 mm |
| Sequined fabricOther | Microtex 70/10–90/14, or Stretch 75/11 or 90/14 | Medium weight | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–60 | 2.0–3.0 mm |
How to read the chart
Type a fabric or a word such as knit, coated or jeans, or narrow the list by kind and class. The needle column is SCHMETZ's own recommendation for that fabric. Sizes are written metric/US: 80/12 is the same needle as 80 or 12. The finer the fabric and thread, the finer the needle; where two sizes are given, start low and go up if stitches skip or the thread shreds.
The thread and stitch length come from Brother's table, which groups fabrics into four classes. Where Brother names the fabric itself, the row says so; the other fabrics are placed by their usual weight, so treat those as a starting point. Thread numbers are the size printed on the spool: the higher the number, the finer the thread. Gütermann rates its all-purpose Sew-all polyester for all fabrics with a universal needle of 70 to 90.
Knits need a ball-point (Jersey) or Stretch needle so the point slips between the loops, and a stitch that can stretch: a narrow zigzag, a stretch stitch or an overlocker. For topstitching with heavy #30 thread, Brother pairs it with a 90/14 to 100/16 needle, and SCHMETZ's Topstitch needle has an extra-large eye and groove for it.
Whatever the chart says, sew a test seam on a scrap with the same layers. SCHMETZ suggests a fresh needle after about eight hours of sewing and at the start of each project.
Brother's four fabric classes
Brother's guidance for home sewing machines that take needles from 65/9 to 100/16.
| Class | Brother's examples | Needle | Thread | Stitch length |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Lightweight | lawn, georgette, chiffon, voile, tulle, lining | 65/9–75/11 | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–80 | 1.8–2.5 mm |
| Medium weight | broadcloth, taffeta, gabardine, flannel, linen, terry cloth, poplin, satin, quilting cotton | 75/11–90/14 | Polyester #60–90, or cotton or silk #50–60 | 2.0–3.0 mm |
| Heavyweight | denim (12 oz and up), canvas, tweed, corduroy, velour, melton wool, vinyl-coated fabric | 90/14–100/16 | Polyester #60, or cotton or silk #30–50 (#30 with a 100/16 needle) | 2.5–4.0 mm |
| Stretch | jersey, tricot, T-shirt fabric, fleece, interlock | Ball point 75/11–90/14 | Polyester, cotton or silk #50 | Set by fabric thickness; sew with a zigzag, stretch or overlock stitch |
Needle sizes, metric and US
SCHMETZ sizes run from 60/8, the finest, to 120/19.
| Metric (NM) | 60 | 65 | 70 | 75 | 80 | 90 | 100 | 110 | 120 |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| US | 8 | 9 | 10 | 11 | 12 | 14 | 16 | 18 | 19 |
Needle types
- Universal: general sewing on wovens and knits, with a slightly rounded point; less suited to many layers or tightly woven cloth.
- Jersey and Ball Point: rounded points that push between the loops of knits instead of piercing them.
- Stretch: for highly elastic knits and synthetic suede, where other needles skip stitches.
- Microtex (sharp): a slim, sharp point for microfibres, polyester, silk, batiks and tightly woven fabric, and for precise topstitching.
- Jeans/Denim: a strong, sharp needle for denim, canvas and dense layers.
- Leather: a cutting point for real and imitation leather and heavy non-woven synthetics.
- Quilting: for piecing and quilting through layers; 75/11 with 50 wt thread, 90/14 with 40 wt.
- Topstitch: an extra-large eye and groove for heavy topstitching thread. Embroidery and Metallic needles are made for rayon, specialty and metallic threads.
- Super NonStick: listed by SCHMETZ for coated, sticky and elastic materials such as vinyl, oilcloth, cork and elastic.
Sources
- SCHMETZ, Needles by fabric type: the needle type and size for every fabric in the chart.
- SCHMETZ, How to pick the correct sewing machine needle: needle types and their sizes, 60/8 to 120/19, and replacing the needle after eight hours of use and at the start of each project.
- Brother, Fabric/thread/needle combinations (operation manual): the four classes, thread sizes, needle sizes and stitch lengths, and the 65/9–100/16 needle range.
- Gütermann, Sew-all thread: 100% polyester for all fabrics, universal needle NM 70–90.
- New Mexico State University, T is for T-Shirts (Guide C-210): sew knit seams with straight, zigzag, stretch or overlock stitching.
Questions
What do the two numbers on a needle mean?
They are the same size in two systems: the metric number (60 to 120) and the US number (8 to 19). An 80/12 needle is 80 metric and 12 US. Bigger numbers are thicker needles for heavier fabric and thread.
Can I use a universal needle for everything?
For many medium woven and stable knit fabrics, yes. Switch when you see trouble: skipped stitches on stretchy knits call for a Jersey or Stretch needle, puckering or dull stitching on fine or dense fabric for a Microtex or Jeans needle.
How often should I change the needle?
SCHMETZ suggests after about eight hours of sewing and at the start of every project, and straight away if it hits a pin, which can blunt the point or bend the shaft.
Which thread should I use?
An all-purpose polyester thread suits most fabrics. Brother lists cotton or silk thread as alternatives in every class and heavier #30 thread for heavy fabric and topstitching. Use a needle large enough for the thread to sit in its groove.